Hawaii

Why Hawaii works so well as a California extension

The flight from Los Angeles to Honolulu takes around six hours and there are multiple daily departures. For UK visitors who have already crossed the Atlantic and crossed the US, adding Hawaii to a two or three week California itinerary requires only the willingness to get back on a plane. The time zone difference between California and Hawaii is two to three hours depending on the season, which means jet lag is minimal in either direction.

Hawaii is the only US state that sits entirely in the tropics. The combination of volcanic landscape, coral reef, tropical forest and Pacific surf creates a range of environments that no other single destination can match. The state sits 2,500 miles from the mainland and its isolation has produced ecosystems found nowhere else on earth — over 90 percent of Hawaii's native species are endemic.

Oahu — Honolulu and Waikiki

Oahu is where most first-time visitors land and where the majority spend their time. Honolulu is the state capital; Waikiki, the famous beach resort district, sits at its edge. The beach is genuinely beautiful — a crescent of white sand below Diamond Head crater, with warm, swimmable water and consistent surf. It is also busy. Very busy in peak season. If crowds concern you, Oahu is the island to visit for its history and city life, not for quiet beach days.

The USS Arizona Memorial at Pearl Harbor is one of the most significant historical sites in the United States — the sunken battleship, visible through the clear water beneath the white memorial structure, is a genuinely powerful experience. Book timed entry tickets well in advance at recreation.gov. The adjacent Battleship Missouri, where Japan signed the surrender in 1945, is a separate ticketed attraction worth combining with the memorial.

The North Shore of Oahu, an hour from Honolulu, is the spiritual home of big wave surfing. From November to February, the waves at Banzai Pipeline and Sunset Beach are among the largest ridden anywhere in the world. The Eddie Aikau invitational — held only when waves exceed 40 feet — is the most prestigious big wave contest in surfing. Even outside the big swell season, the North Shore is a different Hawaii from Waikiki — low-key, local and genuinely beautiful.

Diamond Head crater, rising above Waikiki, has a trail to the summit that takes around ninety minutes return and gives panoramic views of the south Oahu coastline. Go early morning to beat the heat and the crowds. Hanauma Bay, east of Diamond Head, is a protected marine sanctuary with outstanding snorkelling — book timed entry in advance as it sells out daily.

Maui — the valley isle

Maui is the island that tends to make the strongest impression on first-time Hawaii visitors — a combination of extraordinary beaches, accessible whale watching, a dormant volcano and a road that ranks among the great scenic drives in the Pacific. It is more relaxed than Oahu, less remote than the Big Island and has the best balance of amenities and natural drama of any of the main islands.

Haleakala volcano rises to 10,023 feet above the Pacific — high enough that the summit is often above the clouds. The sunrise from the crater rim is one of the most famous in Hawaii; the crater itself, a vast lunar landscape of cinder cones and coloured rock, is extraordinary at any hour. Drive up the evening before, stay at one of the summit shelters or a nearby hotel, and be at the rim before dawn. Cycling down from the summit on the road is a popular activity — dozens of operators run guided descents.

The Road to Hana on Maui's eastern coast is 64 miles of narrow, winding road through rainforest, past waterfalls, over more than fifty bridges and along dramatic sea cliffs. The destination is less important than the journey — stop at the Twin Falls, the Wailua Falls overlook, the black sand beach at Waianapanapa State Park and the garden pools at Oheo Gulch. Allow a full day and book accommodation in Hana if you want to enjoy it without rushing back in the dark.

Humpback whales winter in the warm waters off Maui from December to April in extraordinary numbers. The channel between Maui, Lanai and Molokai — the Auau Channel — is one of the primary North Pacific humpback breeding grounds. Whale watching boats operate daily from Lahaina and Ma'alaea Harbour, and sightings during peak season are as close to guaranteed as wildlife gets. Humpbacks breach, slap and blow within close range of the boats.

The Big Island — Hawaii Island

The Big Island is the youngest and largest of the Hawaiian islands and the only one where you can watch a volcano actively reshaping the earth. Hawaii Volcanoes National Park contains Kilauea, one of the most active volcanoes on earth, and the opportunity to see lava — whether flowing to the ocean, pooling in lava tubes or glowing in the caldera at night — is one of the most extraordinary natural experiences available anywhere in the world. The activity level varies; check the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory before you visit.

The Big Island contains eleven of the world's thirteen climate zones within its borders — from tropical rainforest on the Hilo side to alpine desert on the Mauna Kea summit at nearly 14,000 feet. Mauna Kea is home to some of the finest astronomical observatories on earth; summit stargazing tours operate most evenings and the altitude and isolation produce a night sky of extraordinary clarity.

Snorkelling with manta rays at night off the Kona coast is one of the most remarkable wildlife experiences in Hawaii. The mantas — wingspans up to 18 feet — are drawn to the lights of the boats which attract plankton, and they circle and somersault through the water directly beneath and around the snorkellers. Multiple operators run nightly trips; book in advance.

Kauai — the garden isle

Kauai is the oldest of the main Hawaiian islands and the most dramatically beautiful. The Na Pali Coast on the north shore — seventeen miles of sea cliffs rising up to 4,000 feet directly from the ocean, accessible only by boat, kayak or a challenging hiking trail — is one of the most photographed coastlines in the world and routinely recognisable from its use as a film location. Jurassic Park, Raiders of the Lost Ark, Pirates of the Caribbean and many others were shot here.

The Waimea Canyon on the western side of the island is known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific — ten miles long, a mile wide and up to 3,600 feet deep, with layers of red and green rock and waterfalls visible from the rim overlooks. The combination of the canyon and the Na Pali Coast in a single island gives Kauai a landscape variety that larger islands struggle to match.

Kauai is the least developed of the main islands. There are no buildings taller than a palm tree by law, the pace is slower and the visitor infrastructure is more limited. This is the island for those who want to disappear into a landscape rather than a resort. The north shore town of Hanalei, with its taro fields, bay and mountains, is one of the most beautiful small places in Hawaii.

Getting there and practical notes

Direct flights from the UK to Honolulu are available with several carriers including British Airways. The flight time is around seventeen to eighteen hours direct, or considerably longer via the US mainland — most UK visitors connect through Los Angeles or San Francisco, making a California stop natural rather than a detour.

Inter-island flights between the main Hawaiian islands take thirty to fifty minutes and are operated primarily by Hawaiian Airlines and Mokulele Airlines. Hopping between two islands is entirely feasible on a two-week trip; covering more than two islands well requires at least three weeks.

A hire car is essential on every island except Oahu, where public transport and rideshare cover the main tourist areas adequately. UK driving licences are valid. Roads are well maintained; the Road to Hana is the exception — narrow, one-lane bridges and slow going require patience rather than skill.

ESTA is required as Hawaii is a US state — the same authorisation that covers your California visit covers Hawaii. No additional visa or travel document is needed.