Big Island

Understanding the Big Island

Hawaii Island — universally called the Big Island to avoid confusion with the state — is 4,028 square miles, roughly the size of Connecticut. It is so large that it contains landscapes that look nothing like one another: tropical rainforest on the Hilo side, lava desert on the Kona coast, alpine tundra on the summit of Mauna Kea, cattle ranching country in the interior. The diversity is genuinely remarkable and requires more than a few days to begin to appreciate.

The island divides naturally into two coasts with very different characters. The Kona-Kohala coast on the west is dry, sunny and heavily developed for tourism — the major resort hotels are here, the best diving and snorkelling, and the most reliable weather. The Hilo side on the east is wetter, greener and much less visited — the town of Hilo is genuine and interesting, the waterfalls are extraordinary and Hawaii Volcanoes National Park is a ninety-minute drive from the airport.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Kilauea is one of the most continuously active volcanoes on earth and the opportunity to watch it reshaping the island in real time is one of the most remarkable natural experiences available anywhere in the world. The Halemaumau Crater within the summit caldera has been erupting intermittently since 2020; on clear nights the glow of the lava lake is visible from the Jaggar Museum overlook and is genuinely unforgettable.

The Chain of Craters Road descends 3,700 feet from the summit to the coast through a landscape of hardened lava flows, pit craters and the remnants of forests buried by previous eruptions. The road ends where a 1990s lava flow covered it — the point where the road simply disappears beneath black rock and continues as nothing. The coastal lava bench at the end has some of the most dramatic scenery on the island.

The Thurston Lava Tube — Nahuku — is a walk-through lava tube formed when the outer surface of a lava flow cooled and solidified while the molten lava inside continued to drain away. The tube is 500 feet long, lit for visitors and surrounded by a short loop trail through native tree fern forest that is excellent for birdwatching. The endangered nene — Hawaii's state bird, a native goose — is commonly seen in the park.

Check the USGS Hawaiian Volcano Observatory website before you visit for current eruption status and access conditions. The park entrance fee is covered by the America the Beautiful Non-Resident Annual Pass.

Manta ray night diving and snorkelling

The manta ray night experience off the Kona coast is one of the most extraordinary wildlife encounters in Hawaii and arguably in the Pacific. Manta rays — with wingspans up to 14 feet — are attracted to the lights of the boats, which illuminate the plankton they feed on. The mantas circle and barrel-roll through the water directly beneath snorkellers lying face-down on the surface, sometimes passing within inches. It is not unusual to have a dozen or more mantas feeding simultaneously around the group.

Multiple operators run nightly trips from Keauhou Bay and the Kona coast. Snorkelling requires no certification and is suitable for confident swimmers. Scuba diving gives a different perspective from below the feeding mantas. Book well in advance — the manta trips are one of the most popular activities on the island and fill up quickly in peak season. Manta Ray Advocates Hawaii and Jack's Diving Locker both have strong reputations for responsible wildlife interaction.

Mauna Kea

Mauna Kea rises to 13,796 feet above sea level — the tallest mountain in the world measured from its base on the ocean floor, where it stands over 33,000 feet tall. The summit plateau is home to thirteen astronomical observatories from eleven countries, making it the most important astronomical research site on earth. The combination of altitude, stable atmosphere, low humidity and minimal light pollution produces conditions that no other site can match.

The Mauna Kea Visitor Information Station at 9,200 feet is the starting point for summit visits and runs free nightly stargazing programmes with telescopes, weather permitting. The drive to the summit requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle — the road above the visitor station is unpaved and steep. Rental car companies prohibit standard vehicles above the visitor station; 4WD hire is available in Hilo and Kona. Allow time to acclimatise at the visitor station before ascending — altitude sickness is common at the summit and anyone with heart or respiratory conditions should consult a doctor before attempting it.

The summit at sunset and into the night is one of the most extraordinary experiences on the island — watching the shadow of the mountain stretch across the clouds below as the sun drops, then the stars emerging in a sky with no visible horizon between them and you. Bring extremely warm clothing regardless of the season; temperatures at the summit regularly drop below freezing after dark.

The Kona coast

Kailua-Kona is the main town on the west coast — a compact, walkable waterfront with good restaurants, dive shops and the Hulihee Palace, a nineteenth-century royal summer residence that is now a museum. The pier at Ali'i Drive is the finish line of the Ironman World Championship triathlon held each October — the most famous triathlon in the world and worth timing a visit around if you have any interest in endurance sport.

The Kohala Coast north of Kona has the major resort hotels — the Fairmont Orchid, the Mauna Lani and the Four Seasons at Hualalai are the finest — set against stark lava fields and crystal-clear water. The snorkelling at Kealakekua Bay, a marine sanctuary south of Kona, is the best on the island — spinner dolphins are resident in the bay and the coral and fish life are exceptional. Access is by kayak or boat tour; the overland trail to the bay is currently restricted.

Hilo and the east coast

Hilo is the largest town on the island and the most genuine — a working community with a farmers market that operates every Wednesday and Saturday and is one of the best in Hawaii, an excellent Pacific Tsunami Museum documenting the waves that destroyed the waterfront in 1946 and 1960, and a relaxed pace that feels entirely different from the resort coast.

The waterfalls east of Hilo are among the finest in Hawaii. Akaka Falls plunges 442 feet into a gorge in a single drop — one of the tallest waterfalls in the United States — reached by a short loop trail through tropical forest. Rainbow Falls, on the edge of Hilo, is named for the rainbows that appear in the mist on sunny mornings and is free to visit. The Waipio Valley overlook, on the northern coast, gives views down into a mile-wide valley of taro fields and black sand beach that was once the home of Hawaiian royalty — one of the most dramatic valley landscapes in the state.

Getting around the Big Island

A hire car is absolutely essential. The island is large — driving from Kona to Hilo takes around ninety minutes on the direct route across the saddle between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. There is no meaningful public transport. Book a 4WD if you plan to go to the Mauna Kea summit; a standard car is sufficient for everything else including the national park.

Most visitors fly into Kona (KOA) on the west coast; the airport at Hilo (ITO) is smaller and has fewer connections but is useful if you want to base yourself on the east side. Inter-island flights from Oahu, Maui and Kauai are operated by Hawaiian Airlines and Mokulele Airlines.